Save Money By Inspecting Your Interior Walls Before The Home Inspector Arrives

The interior walls may be made of: drywall (Sheetrock); lath and plaster; wood paneling or planks; exterior siding materials; logs and masonry products including brick, concrete, concrete blocks or adobe.

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Each material has its own unique characteristics, but our primary concerns are cracks, holes, stains, deterioration, deflection and the presence of mold or mildew.

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Walls always have a story to tell.  They may seem to be just flat surfaces but they can be the first indicators of larger structural problems.  The primary indicators are cracks so we begin our inspection by looking for the obvious.

In drywall material there are basically two kinds of cracks; settlement (or shrinkage) cracks and stress cracks.

The difference between a settlement (or shrinkage) crack and a stress crack.

Settlement cracks are those cracks that may be caused by the settlement of a new home into what we call its "foot print" which is the drying of the green wood of the building's framing.

Temperature and humidity variations can change the shape and size of a building during different seasons and can contribute to the appearance and reappearance of settlement cracks.

Settlement or shrinkage cracks are usually straight and run along the joints where two pieces of drywall (Sheetrock) butt up against each other.  The crack is actually in the mud and tape between the two pieces of drywall.  The tape and mud have split open slightly due to movement in the wall.

The tape and mud compounds under the texture are not strong enough to hold the joint together as the wall moves or "settles."

Such cracks are usually incidental in their size or width but can be annoying in their appearance.  Some people will try many different ways of hiding or eliminating them and usually the more they try the worse the cracks look.

Many factors are considered during the inspection and have to be taken into account before concluding that settlement cracks are symptoms of a more serious problem.

Stress cracks are looked at with a more critical eye.

Stress cracks tell a deeper story as they may indicate the possibility of structural movement in the building or foundation.  Earthquakes cause this type of crack as well.

Stress cracks always raise a red flag and cause a home inspector to look thoroughly at the underpinning and foundation of the building.  These types of cracks may also point to over spanning of structural beams or other framing components.

The term span refers to the distance between two intermediate points where a beam, joist or board traverses over an open space.  An over spanned board will bend significantly from the weight of the load it must support and the deflection will show up in the surfaces above it. 

Stress cracks will not follow the joint of the drywall but rather tear across the drywall.  The drywall is literally broken.

You will usually find stress cracks radiating diagonally from the corners of wall openings like windows, doors and hallways.  The crack will be wider at one end and taper off as it disappears into the field of the wall.

If a professional has to be called in to repair settlement or stress cracks the cost for repair can soar to several hundred dollars.

To repair a crack in drywall, a joint rasp is used to cut down through the paper of the drywall into its gypsum body and then several thin coats of taping mud and webbing are applied to refill the hole.  This process requires several days to allow each layer to dry.  The final task is to attempt to match the existing texture (which by design is almost as individualistic as a fingerprint.)  Sometimes it is actually easier to re-texture the whole surface from wall to wall.

With all that work most people just don't bother with the small cracks.  Before having work done on a stress crack you may want to consult with a licensed structural engineer to make sure further cracking or movement is not expected and the overall integrity of the building and foundation is sound.

Like I said, the walls can be the first indicator of larger problems.  However, I always reserved my opinion about cracks until I had looked over the entire building.  In most cases, even the smaller stress cracks were old and not a problem, just a cosmetic nuisance.

Identifying holes in the walls are also a part of your inspection process.

Make notes on your inspection sheet of the location of holes in the walls for later repair.

Makes notes if you see any stains or discoloration in the walls.

Water stains are a big "red flag" for home inspectors.  Water intrusion is one of the primary sources of damage to any structure.  If you include the water used to put out a house fire, insurance claim statistics make it the leading cause of structural damage.  Water ruins wood framing materials, attracts wood destroying insects, wrecks wall coverings, and is the primary source of stimulating organic growth and dry rot.

Be sure to look behind the washer and dryer for signs of water stains.

Check to see if the wall is caulked at the top of the shower stall.  There should be no crack in the caulking where moisture could enter the wall.  This is one of those findings that show up over and over again.  Fix this and your home inspector will wonder if a home inspector prepped your home or the sale.

Look for signs of stains and organic growth in the cabinets under sinks in the kitchen and bathrooms.  Look around the tub and shower and at the wall behind the toilet.

Inspect carefully around the baseboards near exterior doors.  Your inspection of the windows and doors may already have revealed issues around these components.

As you get deeper into your inspection you will recognize that many aspects overlap.  Issues created by the natural movement of a building and problems due to water intrusion reoccur throughout. The key is for you to recognize all of the issues you can and find ways to repair them economically.

VERY IMPORTANT

Be sure to check closets from top to bottom.  This area is commonly missed by homeowners and is where home inspectors often find stains and evidence of organic growth.

The general rule of thumb is; look everywhere that water could be present via plumbing fixtures or around exterior doors and windows.

Any old stains whose source has been repaired should be cleaned or painted over.  Remember, if the inspector can't see it, it won't be in the report.

If you are aware of any plumbing leaks inside the walls they MUST be disclosed.

Home inspectors have moisture detection tools that are able to detect moisture in the walls and underlayment of floors.  The tools are also used to determine if there is active moisture at a stain.  If you try and disguise a water leak, the home inspector will very likely find it.

IR Cameras

A new technology called infrared thermography is now being used to detect water and mold intrusion in buildings.  It is a remarkable science that uses infrared cameras to "see" into walls, ceilings and floors.  Thermography equipment is very expensive but prices are dropping on these cameras and more are being used by home inspectors.

Where there is moisture, there may be organic growth.

As stated before, organic growth (mold and mildew) has become a concern for many people and although a definite problem, has been largely over hyped by the media.

Mold is everywhere.  It is lying dormant in the drywall and wood components of the building.  It exists at the exterior of the building.

The question is whether a person is sensitive to any specific species of mold.  If they are it could be a serious problem.

Mold grows where moisture is persistent.  If organic growth has been observed at the exterior surface of a wall inside the building, it is unknown if there is mold inside the wall without further investigation.  Exploring into the interior of a wall is outside the scope of a home inspection but if the home inspector is suspicious, he will recommend further evaluation.

If you suspect that there is a larger problem, be sure to contact an industrial hygienist for further investigation and testing.  Eliminating mold can be an expensive process, but it is far cheaper than a law suite.

DO NOT TRY AND COVER UP EVIDENCE OF A POTENTIAL MOLD PROBLEM

If a wall appears to be severely bowing or twisted, a licensed structural engineer should be consulted.  There may be issues related to the foundation, underpinnings or soils around the building.

Simple bowing of wood paneling may be due to settling of the building.  An over-sized sheet of paneling could be removed and trimmed to fit correctly.

Wood trim work around paneling should be checked for gaps and missing pieces.

Lath and plaster was a building process used for interior walls until the late 1950s.  Thin pieces of cedar (called lath) were nailed on the 2x4 framing of the wall.  One to three applications of wet plaster was then applied to the lath.  In some cases, layers of wallpaper were applied on top of the plaster for decorating purposes.  This actually added to the stability of the wall.

Inspect the lath and plaster for the same issues as found in drywall.

Cracks in masonry walls are also to be carefully inspected.  There are two different types of cracks - those that have cracked in a "Z" pattern within the mortar and those that have actually broken the stone or brick.

If there is any water penetration through a masonry wall, the paint will peel from the surface.  This is common with subterranean walls in basements and garages.

WALL FINDINGS: REMEDIES AND SOLUTIONS

Cracks

As stated above, repairing cracks in the walls can be a complex and daunting task.  Cracks filled with Spackle compound have a tendency to reoccur.  The filler is not able to expand or contract as the building changes shape through normal temperature and humidity variations.

A paintable, pliable silicone caulk can be applied with a finger to fill settlement cracks.  Its elasticity will expand and contract allowing for slight changes in the crack without allowing it to reopen.  The paint you use has to have an elastic quality as well.

Holes

Small holes such as those left by hanging pictures are easily filled with filler such as Spackle, taping mud or caulk.  Use hard drying filler compounds such as Spackle or mud very sparingly.  Excessive filler on a textured wall around a repair looks bad.

More obvious are holes or minor dents where a doorknob has hit the wall because of a missing or damaged doorstop.  If the hole left by the doorknob is minor, simply apply a thin coat of filler to the hole, let it dry and then add a little more each day until it is flush to the wall surface.

If the doorknob punched through the wall, the repairs will take more work.  There are several kits available at the local hardware store designed to repair holes left by doorknobs.  There are several sites on the Internet that provide a variety of techniques for repairing holes in drywall.

The real trick is not so much repairing the hole as much as matching the texture.  A good drywall technician can match texture very closely.  Get a few bids from different sources if you have a large area that needs to be repaired.

If you have to remove damaged drywall that covers two or more framing studs it would probably be a good idea to contact a professional.  Get at least two bids for the repair.

Water Stains

If you find water stains, eliminate the source of the water intrusion and then seal and paint the affected surface.  If there is any evidence of organic growth further investigation and remediation may be necessary.  Do not cover or disguise areas where mold is present.  The ramifications of doing so can be quite extreme.

Local companies who restore buildings after fires are probably the best resource to quickly locate water intrusion problems.  They have the equipment and expertise to trace the entry points of moisture.  Look for a company that has the thermography equipment mentioned.

Organic Growth (Mold, Mildew and Fungus)

Surface mold and mildew can usually be removed with products designed for such applications.  Contrary to popular belief, using a mixture of water and bleach is NOT a good cleaning solution.  Laundry bleach is primarily made up of water and small amounts of chlorine.  Mixing bleach with water to dilute it creates a solution that is mostly water.

Do you remember what must be present for mold and mildew to grow?  Moisture!  Diluted bleach is mold food.

If there is evidence of visible mold in areas larger than a few square inches, you will have to have a professional evaluate what further action should be taken.  As with water intrusion issues, companies that do fire restoration are great sources for information about dealing with mold problems.

There are several Websites that discuss mold issues.  Several provide free kits for testing by the homeowner.

Deterioration

Some of the most common causes of deterioration are water intrusion, condensation and insect infestation.  As with water and mold problems, the course of action is to determine the cause, eliminate it and repair as needed.

A qualified handyman is capable of these repairs.  There are usually several listed in the phone book.  Get multiple bids and ask for referrals.  Do not hire the first person that shows up.  If they fidget at your request for proof of the quality of their work, look elsewhere.  If they are reputable, they will welcome your inquires.

Bowing Issues

If you have walls that are not straight up and down or appear to be out of whack, contact a structural engineer to determine why.  These professionals usually charge a small fee for their inspection.

I can't even begin to tell you how many times I was asked if a wall was a "bearing wall."  My standard answer was "Every wall is a bearing wall unless a licensed structural engineer says it isn't." 

Save Money By Inspecting Your Interior Walls Before The Home Inspector Arrives

Rick Daniel
Certified Master Inspector
http://27DollarHomeInspections.com

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Sheen Or No Sheen For Your Interior Walls? Painting Contractor Provides Pros and Cons

Having owned a painting contractor business for over 26 years, I can safely say that one of the most common questions I have been asked is whether to use flat, satin or gloss paint on the interior walls. Usually the homeowner is looking for durability in paint finish because they have children or moisture problems. Other homeowners want the enriched color tones that are attainable through paints that have sheen. Some homeowners try to create special effects in their home environment that is only attainable with glossy paint.

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An experienced painting contractor would agree that one could certainly make a valid argument for using paints with sheen; however, most homeowners are not aware of the downside to using glossy paint on their walls.

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Below are problems associated with using gloss paint.

1. One of the most common problems with using gloss paint is it causes minor defects in your walls to become visible. Defects that are not visible with flat paint suddenly become visible with satin or gloss finishes. If you receive a fair amount of sunlight through windows in the room, it will become even more noticeable. Sheetrock tape joints that are slightly raised or depressed can become obvious. Uneven texture in the walls can become visible, etc.

2. Paints with a sheen are notorious for causing a halo effect around trim. When you roll the walls in a room, the roller nap leaves a texture. This texture is different than the texture left by the brush you use to cut in wall paint around doors, windows, baseboard, and crown moldings. Light reflects differently from the texture left by the brush than from the textures left by the roller nap. This halo effect is annoying and will ruin the appearance of your room.

3. If you are planning to paint gloss paint over existing flat walls, you really need two coats of paint to avoid flashing (unevenness of sheen throughout the wall). Two coats improve consistency of sheen and enhance color tone. This of course, increases your cost.

If you still would like the look that sheen can bring, then follow these suggestions.

1. Use very low sheen paint. To minimize the problems associated with gloss paint, Consider using low sheen eggshell or satin finishes.

2. Prep your walls very well. Some of the wall problems may be beyond the scope of what you or the painter you hire can do. A Sheetrock contractor may be your best option for major wall repair.

3. Be sure and cut your walls in with a brush before you roll the walls. After the walls have been cut in with a brush, then roll the wall paint within a quarter of an inch of your trim. Another solution is to apply blue tape to all the trim which will allow you to roll the paint against the trim. This will go a long way in reducing the halo effect. Make sure you have a small roller frame and nap on hand to reach areas where a standard size roller frame can't reach. If you touch your trim with the roller, then immediately clean the paint off the trim with a cloth.

4. Be sure and budget for two coats of paint to achieve the look and feel you want.

Low sheen paints can give you the richness and depth of color with reduced problems, especially in rooms that do not get a lot of light. If your are going to use flat paint, then realize not all flat paints are alike. Top of the line flat paints will clean with much less damage to the wall than cheaper paint. Make sure it is a scrub able paint. When you clean flat paint you should use a sponge with water and soap. Never use a cloth. Cleaning with a cloth will buff the surface causing sheen to appear at that spot. My recommendation as a painting contractor is plan your project well. Consider the quirks of gloss paint and budget accordingly. Weigh the pros and cons of using sheen on your walls.

Sheen Or No Sheen For Your Interior Walls? Painting Contractor Provides Pros and Cons

Nicky Taylor CEO Of http://www.home-painting-services.com. Nicky offers his expertise in resources and additional articles on the website above. Nicky is owner of a 26 year old house painting contractor service and home improvement company serving all North Atlanta Georgia. He shares his knowledge and expertise garnered through years of service in the home improvement industry. It contains helpful information for any DIYer planning to undertake their own projects.

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8 Interior Painting Tips and Advice

Painting a room can easily freshen it up and give it a new look instantly, but many homeowners dread interior painting. If you know what to do and how to paint in the most efficient manner, painting the inside of your home is not that bad. Here are some basic interior painting tips and advice for your next painting project in your home.

1. Don't try to prep the area and paint it all in one day. You will only feel rushed and that can lead to a bad paint job. Instead, set aside a day when you can prep the space for painting. This can even be done a few days ahead if it is a room that is not used that much. The preparation day should include such things as taping the walls, laying down drop clothes, moving the furniture, and gathering all the painting supplies in the room.

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2. Never try to paint over damaged walls. Before you even try to paint a room, you should look over the walls and fix any cracks or holes there may be. You can easily fix cracks and holes with drywall kits and sanding. Be sure to do this at least a day before you paint so that the drywall plaster can dry, and you have time to sand down the area as well.

3. Be sure that you choose the best brushes for the paint job. If you are using an oil-based paint, then go with natural bristles on the brush. If you are using a water-based or latex paint, then you need to buy synthetic bristled brushes, as they work the best to paint an even coat on the wall. If you have a large space to paint, then you will want to use foam rollers for the bigger areas. Then buy smaller brushes to paint around the trim and windows.

4. If you want a professional look on your walls, then you definitely want to use a primer before painting the walls. A primer just makes the paint go on so much more even and avoids possible tainting of the color from a previous wall color. You can even have your primer tinted to match your base coat color, which may help you avoid a second coat of base color on the walls.

5. Be sure that you use painter's blue tape for any areas that you don't want to get paint on such as doorway frames, trim, and windows. When applied to a smooth surface, the tape will not allow the paint to seep into the areas that you don't want it to go. When the paint has dried, you can simply remove the tape, and you don't have to worry about any of the paint coming with it.

6. Have plenty of old rags for any mistakes that may happen. It is inevitable that you may drop some paint on the trim or your brush may hit something that it shouldn't on the wall.

7. Make sure that you use even strokes when painting to get an even coat. Be sure that you have plenty of natural light in the room to see where you are painting and any areas that you may have missed.

8. Be sure to keep any leftover paint for any future touch-ups or fixes. If you don't want to keep the large paint can around for a small amount of paint, then pour the leftover paint into a glass jar with a tight lid. Be sure to label the jar the exact color of the paint, the room it was used in, and the date.

Painting the interior of your home doesn't have to be scary. Simply follow these easy tips and you can be on your way to changing the décor of your home in no time.

8 Interior Painting Tips and Advice

Leon Tuberman owns and operates a furniture store in Los Angeles that specializes in American made solid oak furniture for you bedroom, living room, dining room and home office furniture. Whether your looking for oak dining room sets for the holidays or a wood bookcase for your home office they carry everything you need at an affordable price.

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DIY Interior Decor Upgrades - Big Impact With a Small Price

Ever since we were hit with a harsh economic environment we have taught ourselves how to truly save money and maintain a decent quality of life. We seek low interest rates, quantity discounts, only buy when on sale, look for private label products, and most importantly, DIY or "Do It Yourself" is a mainstay. Although there are other DIY opportunities out there that might already be in effect in your life, home renovation is an area where DIY can save you thousands.

We always strive to improve our quality of life and it starts within our own home. We invest our hard earned money into a monthly mortgage payments and continuous repairs and upgrades. I can only assume that over the last few years you have taken a closer look and your home improvement budget and due to cost, probably cut out some major projects and replaced them with minor fixes. For example, maybe instead of knocking down the family room wall to open up the space, you chose to simply paint the wall a lighter color to make the room feel larger. You saved two ways, your cost of material is significantly less, and chances are, you would've hired a contractor to do the work. Or, maybe instead of replace the interior doors and trim, you took the doors and trim off, brought it into the garage, sanded them down and stained them until they look brand new. I could give you many more examples, but my point is that we can save money while still improving the value of our home and the quality of our life.

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Tip of the day: Try to avoid doing it yourself if the project is honestly out of your realm of carpentry. How do you know it's not a DIY? Try this check list.

Have you done it before? Are you 100% confident you can do it? Do you have the necessary tools, or are you willing to spend the money needed to get them? Do you have a friend that has done this before and can help you in a jam? Do you have a plan from start to finish?

If you can't answer the majority of these questions with a YES, then maybe the job is cut out for a contractor. Remember, it is usually more expensive for a contractor to fix your work and complete the job rather than just start the job from scratch.

Ready to start your DIY interior decor upgrades?
I hope you had a fun summer staining the deck, repairing the fence and building your garden, but winter is approaching and it is time to look for interior decor upgrades projects. Walk around your home and find as many DIY upgrades as you can, choose the upgrade that you think will make the biggest impact, and then decide if it fits within your budget. If so, then good luck! Below you will find some DIY upgrade ideas that make a big impact without undergoing a major renovation!

Add decorative molding and trim
A little pricey, but fairly easy to do and can really make a big design impact on any room, especially the dining room and living room.

Add a tile backsplash in the kitchen
Moderately priced depending on the size of the area you want to cover. This is easier to do than you may think. It will require patience and attention to detail. You will be surprised what it can do to the look of a kitchen...amazing.

Replace plastic white switchplates with decorative brass, nickel, oil rubbed bronze switchplates
Cost around -0 a room, depending on the style you choose and the amount of switches and outlets in each room. What a difference this can make, and it's probably the easiest upgrade you will ever do. You might not notice your switchplates and outlet covers, but like a bad pair of shoes, everyone else does...and like a good pair of shoes, you will want to show them off.

Replace door hardware
Each door should cost around to depending on the hardware. Just follow how to instructions and this is an easy job. You might not think door hardware is a big deal, but similar to switchplates, it is seen and touched by everyone. It is noticeable and can really accent your decor.

By Richard Mariano

DIY Interior Decor Upgrades - Big Impact With a Small Price

Rick Mariano is a fan and promoter of decorative switchplate decor. Visit his blog at http://www.switchhits.com/blog.

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Remove Interior Walls Safely and Efficiently Without Wrecking the House

A lot of people's first thought in undertaking a remodeling project is to start with tearing down walls. That's an ambitious (if not impulsive) beginning to a project, with focused action for one's built-up energy, but it's a decision that needs to be well considered and fully realized before any actual work can safely begin. Walls are built for several reasons, whether as bearing walls designed to hold up a house and transfer loads from above, or as partitions designed to provide privacy or define space. Bearing walls and partitions both provide safe places to run electrical wiring and mount switches, fixtures, and outlets. Walls also provide safe places to run plumbing water supply lines, drains and vents, and heat ducts and registers. An important consideration is what floor covering will fill the void left by removal of the wall's base moldings and base plate.

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People's lifestyles today differ greatly from what was common 30-75 years ago. Larger open areas for entertaining and light are much preferred over smaller, private spaces, so the underlying reasons for removing walls in older homes are good. But, you've got to first assess what functions a wall serves before deciding whether it's possible to safely remove it entirely or if some kind of structural replacement will be necessary. So, before thoughtless attack with sledge hammers, jack hammers, chain saws, pry bars and backhoes, sniff out some telltale signs of perhaps why the wall was built in the first place. Then the fun of dismantling, not demolition, can begin. If you want to make a big mess and cause a lot of dust and needless cleanup work, go ahead, use a sledge hammer and chain saw, but to be most safe and efficient, follow tips in this guide.

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It's important to know if a wall is bearing weight to know what the resulting removal will finish like. Bearing walls carry roof, ceiling, and floor loads. They often run perpendicular to floor and ceiling joists, but there are exceptions. Spotting a bearing wall isn't always easy, it may be prudent or necessary to hire an engineer, who also would be able to specify beam sizing and design to replace the bearing wall. That beam may be installed hidden within the finished ceiling in line with the floor joists above, or installed hidden in an attic from above with joists hung below with mechanical fasteners. Installed below the joists, the beam can be trimmed as an architectural detail. Cost and practicality will influence design decision.

Before removing the framing of a bearing wall, build a temporary wall to pick up the load. Consider the bearing wall may need support on both sides when joists lap. Consider the weight bearing capacity of the underlying floor joists. Further bracing below may be necessary. Use doubled 2x8 top and base plates to better distribute the load path without knowing ceiling or floor joist layout. The plates could be cushioned with towels to minimize potential damage to the ceiling and floor finishes. Temporarily fasten top plates to ceiling with a couple of screws. Cut the temporary brace studs slightly longer to take some weight off the bearing wall and compress towel cushion. Install them on 16 inch centers with grabber screws to make adjustments and removal easier. Use of a hydraulic jack may help, but be careful not to raise it excessively.

Walls are built in an organized way, and that's the best way to take them down. Wall studs and plates go up first, and they should be taken down last. Trim moldings, casing and base, go in last, and should come off first. Sheetrock or even lath and plaster can be removed in large sections to make cleanup easier. Decide when to remove floor coverings. Perhaps saving vinyl flooring until after lath and plaster removal will make sweeping up easier and keep debris from falling through the subfloor or into the basement. Existing carpet may cushion and protect underlying hardwood flooring.

Chances are good that electrical wiring is in the wall, even given absence of the obvious indicators of switches and outlets. Check top plates from the attic and bottom plates from below for wiring penetrations and turn off the affected power circuits. It may be prudent to hire an experienced licensed and insured electrician to remove or reroute wiring safely.

Plumbing lines may be in the wall. The location of an adjoining, above or below kitchen and bathroom fixtures may indicate approximate plumbing water supply lines or drain and vent lines locations. Turn off the closest water supply valves. It may be prudent to hire an experienced licensed and insured plumber to remove or reroute plumbing lines safely. Consider heat ducting runs and register locations for future use.

Set up for the wall removal with appropriate drop cloths. Tape plastic sheets to door openings to reduce chance of dust migration. Put an electric fan in a window to provide a positive airflow out of the room. Wear a dust mask and use eye protection.

Dismantle the wall carefully for safe and efficient debris removal. Start with casing and base. Run a utility knife through the molding edges to break the caulk seams. Carefully remove the molding with a pry bar in one piece, especially if the molding is obsolete and must be reused.

A reciprocating saw is the remodeler's best removal tool. Use of one can become a skill, even a sculptural ar tform. Sheetrock, gyplath, and lath and plaster can be most easily removed by starting with saw cuts in ceiling and wall corners. Gyplath and lath and plaster usually have expanded metal lath reinforcement in these junctions that can best be cut with a toothless carborundum blade. Large sections of sheetrock can be pried off, especially if screws are removed. Break taped joints with a utility knife. Cut gyplath into sections for removal, as expanded metal lath may again be used as reinforcement at gypboard joints. Lath and plaster is hard to remove in large pieces, you'll just have to be patient. Scraping plaster off the lath may be an efficient technique to break off the plaster keys. Lath may be carefully pried off studs to reduce individual nail removal.

Before cutting wall studs framing nails with the recipro saw, notch cutouts around wiring and plumbing. A chisel may be helpful to split plates. Remember, only one end of a stud needs to be cut free from nails!
With some planning and care, wall removal can be done safely and efficiently. If this process seems daunting, if you feel you need only do what you do best to make an income, hire an experienced licensed and insured General Contractor. Soon, you'll have a more modern, open living space to enjoy. See my website, http://davidtaylorremodeling.com. for more remodeling tips.

Remove Interior Walls Safely and Efficiently Without Wrecking the House

Offering all residential remodeling services from design to finish carpentry, David Taylor Remodeling has over 30 years experience in the Salt Lake City area. We offer customization at the highest level. Specialist in kitchens, bathrooms; custom door, window, skylight installation. Call 801-485-4358. http://www.davidtaylorremodeling.com/

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Interior Plaster Options

Plaster has been around for centuries and the desire for smooth monolithic walls is still the preferred look. We know that 5,000 years ago the Egyptians burnt gypsum and then crushed it into a powder then mixed it with water to be used as a joining compound for the massive blocks to build the pyramids.

Traditionally in the US, gypsum plaster was applied in three coats. The first coat was called the "scratch coat" which was applied over wood lath or metal lath and put on at a thickness of 1/4" - 1/2" in one pass, then scratched with a scarfier or some type of rake to help "key in" the next coat. The second coat or "brown coat" was applied the next day or within a few days and long straight edges or "darbies" were used to flatten the wall. This coat was finished smoother but left a little rough to allow the final coat to bond. This second pass was also applied at a similar thickness as the first coat. The third and final coat was the "finish coat". This last coat of plaster was a much thinner application and usually hard troweled to a smooth finish. The finish coat was usually painted but before paint was available, the product was integrally colored or left the natural color of the raw materials. This look is what most will call "Venetian Plaster", "Faux Plaster" or "Polished Plaster".

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Most people today will call any smooth finished wall with color variation "Venetian Plaster". Venetian plaster is more of a style or technique of multiple thin coats layered one on top of the other to create the appearance of depth. Most plaster today is applied directly over prepared drywall and is done in much thinner coats. The thickness of the plaster system will depend on the preparation of the drywall substrate. Very thin plaster systems will require the drywall to be finished to a level 4 or 5, or will require a thicker plaster base coat to cover and smooth out the imperfections in the drywall. Thicker plaster systems may not require any taping of board joints and inside or outside corners, but will require some sort of treatment before applying a finish coat.

Today there are many different plaster materials to choose from including gypsum, cement, lime, acrylic and even clay. Lately the most popular are acrylic plasters which can be purchased at most any box store, online or at a specialty supply house. It is important to find the correct product for the particular application. Acrylic plaster is easy to apply, can be patched, is incredibly durable and the installed price is usually less expensive. The most popular reason to hand trowel plaster is that it is integrally colored and the color is varied to give depth in the wall or ceiling, so color options should be a high priority when choosing an interior plaster. Typically, interior acrylic plaster may be tinted to any color imaginable for a very low cost compared to clay plaster, gypsum plaster, lime plaster or cement plaster. The reason is that the product is much thinner and the colorants are readily available and inexpensive. Since most all acrylic plaster is manufactured domestically and the coverage is superior to most other plasters, it is an economic choice for a plaster system.

Interior Plaster Options

Author: Timothy Williams, Owner, Volterra Architectural Products

Volterra Architectural Products manufactures distinctive architectural elements for interior and exterior use including faux wood beams, corbels, brackets, shutters and truss tails. Interior/exterior finishes include limestone plaster, gypsum plaster, acrylic plaster and exterior stucco (including EIFS). Volterra also produces decorative cast resin products for the tile and stone industry, as well as manufactured stone veneer.

http://www.volterraproducts.com/

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