Curved Shower Curtain Rods

Most shower curtain rods are the standard straight curtain rods; however now there is a new type of curtain rod that gives you more space in the shower. This is the curved shower curtain rods. These curved shower rods actually increase the shower space by 25 to 35 percent, hence making your bathroom look bigger than it really is. The curved shower curtain rods are also easy to install, and are normally available in packages that contain wood screws, tile anchors, sheetrock anchors, setscrews and Allen wrenches.

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There are certain special features that make up curved shower curtain rods. They are suitable for both oval and rectangular-shaped tubs, and they come in several types including rolling shower curtain rods, and 5' or 6' shower rods with brushed-nickel finishes. No matter what the type, they all create a sense of open space in the bathroom. The brackets used in curved shower curtain rods allow for adjustments to suit different lengths of the bath space. In fact, the curtain rods can be cut down in length, if necessary to make the installation process easier. Just because the curtain rods are curved does not mean that need to get a new set of shower curtains, as normal shower curtains fit nicely into curved rods.

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There are a few other advantages that come with curved shower curtain rods. Apart from the obvious space factor, these rods are very effective, efficient, durable and economical. They prevent water leakage because of the special 3' curve-in feature at the corners. This feature also prevents the shower curtains from coming out of the bathtub, which can be messy and troublesome. Because the rods are curved, you can be assured of more space for your hand and elbow movement, which is very important when you are bathing.

Curved Shower Curtain Rods

Curtain Rods provides detailed information on Curtain Rods, Shower Curtain Rods, Decorative Curtain Rods, Magnetic Curtain Rods and more. Curtain Rods is affiliated with Kitchen Curtains.

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Nothing Insulates Like Insulation - A Key Ingredient of A High Performance Home

In previous articles, we defined a High Performance Home and talked of the significance of energy saving windows and doors. Today we will explore insulation and its importance. As more evidence pours in to indicate the damage done by global warming, the need to build High Performance Homes becomes even greater.

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First a definition from Wikipedia on the internet: "Insulation resists the flow of heat. Heat is a form of energy - it always travels from hot to cold - flowing outward in winter and inward in summer. By reducing heat flow, a properly insulated home uses less energy in winter for heating and less in the summer for cooling." Here the operative term is "properly insulated". There are several good products out there and they must be correctly installed to meet their potential.

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Some of the different insulation materials common to our area (Texas) are: Fiberglass, Cellulose, Rockwool, and Foam. Exotics like earth berms, hay bales, used tires have yet to make their way into the mainstream of construction. For most applications they are not the best method to insulate your new home. For the insulation to function as it should, it needs to fill the voids in the wall cavity and provide coverage overhead as well.

Fiberglass may be installed stuffed into the wall cavity as a batt, either faced or unfaced. Imagine a thick blanket of spun glass fibers encapsulated in a paper bag that has a vapor retardant. Alternatively it could be that same thick blanket without the paper. Either way it is typically manually placed in the cavity by the installer, making sure to not crush the insulation, leaving it as fluffy as possible to maximize the dead air space that it contains. Another method of installing fiberglass is to blow it into the wall cavity with a glue to hold it together or placing a net over the studs in the wall to hold it in place until the wall receives sheetrock. Cellulose, made from recycled paper and treated with chemicals to retard burning and Rockwool made from fumed ceramic are similarly installed.

Foam is applied as a wet ingredient and expands to fill the cavity. It is interesting to watch the application as it looks as though the installer is spraying the wall cavity with paint and then it starts to grow several inches thick filling all cracks and voids in an extremely efficient manner. As you might guess it is my favorite type of insulation. Its only drawback is the cost which is considerably higher than the other types, but has impressive results and a quick payback due to lower utility bills.

The next consideration is how to insulate the area overhead. We can blow any of the above mentioned types of insulation on the top of the sheetrock that forms the ceiling. Or better yet, the latest method is to insulate the underside of the roof to make the entire attic space sealed from the environment and keeping the typically attic installed HVAC system in an insulated space. I have measured temperatures in the attic many times during the summer to try to get some idea of what is happening up there. The range during the hottest part of the day is around 160 degrees f. in an attic where the ceiling has been insulated. Surprisingly it is only 85f where the underside of the roof has been insulated. With a sealed attic space the HVAC systems just works better.

Now it's time for the myth busting. Ventilating your attic will lower your utility bills, right? Wrong! You would need a ventilation hole big enough to fly a Cessna aircraft through to get any relief from the heat that builds up in the attic space. So why not just insulate the underside of the roof and make the entire attic cooler? I bet I get some emails on that one. And you can too. Just use the address below.

In the thirty years that I have been building there have been a lot of changes. I'm disheartened when I see people building them like we did 15 years ago because they have not kept up with the technology. Here are some helpful links if you would like to know more:

For Joe's Top Ten list of the dumb things that builders do in the south go to [http://www.eeba.org/resources/dumbsouth/index.html]

For information about the Energy Star Program go to http://www.energystar.gov/

Demilec, a company that sells form insulation: http://www.sealection500.com/dem/s500/index.php

My next article "What do I mean by building Green".

Copyright 2007

Nothing Insulates Like Insulation - A Key Ingredient of A High Performance Home

Ronnie Godfrey, Certified Graduate Builder

For more information about this article and other energy saving tips, visit out website

http://www.RGodfreyHomes.com

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Log Home Kits - Comparing Materials Lists and Pricing

Log home kits are generally defined as a materials package that has been pre-cut and prepared to give you all the necessary logs and materials to enable you to build a defined amount of your log home. Unfortunately, there is no standard for defining the various levels of completeness among log home manufacturers. This oftentimes makes comparing the kits from manufacturer to manufacturer a difficult process. The process becomes even more complicated because the differences in type and quality of materials vary from manufacturer to manufacturer.

For example, let's say you have kit materials lists from two different manufacturers that are identical down to the number of screws. One manufacturer's kit cost is 20% less than the other's. At face value it would seem the less expensive package is the better deal. But this is not necessarily the case, particularly if the lower-priced kit is comprised of green pine log and low-quality single pane windows and the other kit is made up of kiln-dried cedar logs and top of the line dual-pane windows with a 25-year warranty.

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However, as a general rule of thumb, most log home manufacturers offer some variation of three packages: log and timber shell, weather-tight shell and a complete turn-key materials package.

The Log & Timber Package (LTP) is best suited for developers, builders and/or general contractors who have experience building log homes and also have access to wholesale building materials. LTPs typically include the precut, fitted and numbered logs for the exterior walls and timber for joists, beams, posts and trusses (sealant/caulking tape, lag bolts, splines, nails, screws, nuts, bolts and washers are included). Windows, doors, flooring, interior studding, sheetrock/drywall, moldings, roof decking, roofing or other finished materials are not included. When purchasing a LTP, understand that the total cost of materials can be more than double the LTP kit cost, so plan accordingly.

The Weather-Tight Shell Package (WTS) is the most popular for log home enthusiasts who are building their first log home. As its name suggest, this package typically contains all the material necessary to erect a weather-tight shell that allows a new home-owner to seal the home off from the elements and continue working on the interior at whatever pace or budget that suits them best. Like the LTP, the WST kit includes all the exterior logs and timer to frame the house. Also included in most WTS kits are the windows and exterior doors (including bucks and trim), roofing materials, interior framing materials (2X4 / 2X6), second story floor joists and sub-flooring (as applicable) and all porch/decking material. Sealant/caulking tape, lag bolts, splines, nails, screws, nuts, bolts and washers are also included. A WTS package typically gets builders to 70% completion. Finished flooring, interior walls and appliances are not included.

Turn-Key Packages (TKP) are typically more expensive, but they include everything you will need to build your new log home so that you just turn the key and move into your new home. A TKP offers some advantages: by sourcing all the materials from a single supplier, most buyers can save money compared to buying smaller quantities of materials from several different vendors, plus there are fewer invoices and payments to manage. If there happens to be a problem with any of the materials, supplies or appliances, you have one point of contact to call to get things resolved. Because of the volume of kits produced, some of the larger log home manufacturing companies, like Cedar Knoll Log Homes, get wholesale pricing on non-log materials and pass that savings on to their customers.

At the end of the day, it really comes down to personal preference and budgetary constraints. The best advice I can offer is to work with a log home company that makes you feel at ease and comfortable; one that is willing to work with you to give you what you want, not one that tries hard to push on you what they want to sell because it is the most profitable (for them). Lastly, while I still believe that a handshake means a deal, get everything in writing: a signed contract by both parties protects everyone.

Log Home Kits - Comparing Materials Lists and Pricing

Ron Marx is president of Cedar Knoll Log Homes, a leading log home and log cabin manufacturer. Ron has more than 25 years of log home building experience. Cedar Knoll Log Homes has been designing and manufacturing custom log home kits and log cabin kits since 1980. Cedar Knoll Log Homes' corporate headquarters and 20,000 square foot state-of-the-art milling facility, along with a 1680 square foot beautifully appointed log home model, are situated just off the shores of Lake Champlain in Plattsburgh, NY. Cedar Knoll Log Homes uses only the finest Adirondack cedar and pine available and dries logs at the company's onsite kiln. Prospective log home / log cabin buyers, builders, contractors, wholesalers or dealers are encouraged to call 800-315-0626 for additional information or visit loghomeslogcabins.com

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Dry Wall Patching - 5 Steps to Successfully Repairing a Hole in the Wall

Drywall patching requires patience and persistence. I am going to break the process down easily so you will be more informed before you start your next dry wall patch.One thing you must consider when working with drywall is the DUST. If you are sensitive to the drywall dust or gypsum you may want to get a particle mask, safety goggles or gloves and wear a long sleeve shirt for protection. Don't forget to protect any home furnishings that you want to keep dust free, too!

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Step1: prep the hole or area to be patched.

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If the hole or area to be patched has loose wall board paper you will need to remove the loose paper and gypsum. Now if the wall board paper wants to continue tearing up the side of the wall, a way to stop this is the take a razor knife and cut back from the loose area about an inch or so. What you are doing is scoring the wall so when you tear of the loose paper it will come to the scored line and not tear further causing a larger area to need patch work. If after you have removed the loose paper and the gypsum board underneath is crumbled and barely hanging to the wall, you need to knock out all the loose gypsum. Loose paper and gypsum will cause the drywall compound to not bond strongly and may create a bubble you will see only after coating with compound. As part of the prep, you may want to square up the hole so you can more easily cut the piece of sheetrock that will fill the void.

OK so the area is prepped and now we will need to move to step 2, which will instruct you on how to properly attach a piece of sheetrock cut to fill the hole in your wall or ceiling.

Step 2: back framing the hole to attach the sheetrock you will cut to fill the void.

Just like with new construction you will need to have wood framing to screw the sheetrock into. To explain, I will use an example patch area of one foot by one foot. You will need to cut a 2x4 into two 16" lengths. You will need to gather a cordless or electric drill and about a dozen 1¼ " wood screws. Take one of the 2x4's you have cut and slide it in the hole and behind the existing sheetrock, along one side of the hole. The reason the 2x4 is longer (16") than the 12" hole is because we will extend it a couple of inches beyond the top and bottom. So now you have a 2x4 inside the wall on one side, the 2x4 needs to be laying flat against the inside of the wall, it will not be turned so the 4" width of the 2x4 is flat against the inside, this will give us a larger surface for attachment as apposed to the standard way of framing which would be with the 2" width facing the sheetrock. You will want to eyeball, best as possible the 2x4 and split the difference of the board width between the existing sheetrock and where you will attach the piece of sheetrock you will cut for the patch. Now that the 2x4 is held in the correct position you will need to screw the 2x4 into the existing drywall by holding tightly to the board and screwing into it through the face of the existing sheetrock. You will put two screws along the edge and one on the top and bottom of the existing sheetrock to strongly secure the 2x4 to accept piece of sheetrock you will cut. Once you have completed one side, repeat the same procedure on the other side. So when you have finished back framing you now have a strong frame to attach the patch piece of sheetrock. * Note - if you have a hole to patch where there are framing, electric or mechanical issues in the way that keep you from sliding the 2x4 behind the wall to screw down the side, you can screw in the top and bottom of the 2x4 and this will be sufficient. You may also consider attaching the 2x4 back framing across the top and bottom of the hole as apposed to attaching the 2x4's on the sides, just use the same instructions of attachment for the sides or top and bottom.

Now that the prep and framing are complete next we will cut a piece of sheetrock to insert into the framed hole in step 3.

Step 3: take a measurement of the hole and cut a piece of sheetrock to fit and secure it.

It does not have to fit super tight but it will need to fit and be screwed to the back framing you installed. You should put 2-3 screws down each side attaching the piece of sheetrock you cut to the framing. * Note- all the screws will need to be "set" below the surface of the sheetrock but not deep enough that the screw head tears the paper face on the sheetrock, unset screws will show and interfere with the next step. **Note sheetrock comes in two thicknesses for most residential construction -1/2" and 5/8". ½" is normally on the interior walls/ceilings and 5/8" is used on underside of stairs and in the garage.

Well you're making progress and you have filled the void with sheetrock, now we will move on to the coating or finishing phase of the dry wall compound (mud) explained in step 4.

Step 4: coating the patch with drywall compound (mud).

As I was saying in step 3 the piece of sheetrock you cut to fill the hole does not have to fit super tight. If the sheetrock you cut has a gap around the border/joint of it and where it meets the existing wall board, you should pre fill the area before applying the drywall tape. So just take a little compound and fill in the edges and smooth the excess flat wit the wall, allow to dry. Next is to apply the drywall tape so that after we are all finished there will not be a crack around the joint of the patched hole. For patch work I like to use a "mesh" or "fiber" tape, it provides a stronger hold and the mesh tape is much more forgiving than regular drywall tape, in the since you do not have to pre mud the wall to adhere the tape. The mash tape has a sticky backing, so all you do is cut the mesh tape to the length you need, stick it on the wall with the middle of the mesh tape running right in line with the joint or crack. The mesh tape should always run past the joint at least an inch. Repeat this process for all four sides of the patch. Next apply a coat of compound around the perimeter of the patch, over the mesh tape. The mesh will be slightly visible after only one coat. * Note - If you apply to much compound (mud) you will have a hump in the surface. Allow this coat to dry, sand lightly, mostly to knock of any knife edges that dried in the compound and could cause the next coat to build up to much. You do not want to try and mud the patch in just 1 coat, it is better to apply a moderate/thin coat allow to dry, sand and coat again. After all the coats (at least two) have dried and you are satisfied that the surface is coated evenly, sand the mud to even the surface. * Note - a less than perfect coating job can be smoothed out with sanding. Sanding along the outside edge of the mud too, will blend the patched area better into the existing surface. A really neat trick is after you have sanded the patch, take a wet sponge or rag and "wash" the outside mud of the patch blending it even better into the existing surface, this trick will help you avoid seeing a mud line around the patch when it is completed. If your home has a smooth texture, this is the last step, your ready to paint. If you do not have a smooth texture you will need to read on.

Only one more step and the drywall part of your patch will be complete, texture. We will discuss various textures and how to apply the in step 5.

Step 5: there are many textures and you must first know how to identify your existing texture before going forward.

Older homes may have a swirl, crows foot, hand or smooth texture. Newer homes for the most part use smooth, orange peel, knockdown and hand textures. For a crows foot you will need a crows foot or stomp texture brush. For swirl texture you may have to consult a dry wall supplier store for the correct texture brush or experiment with a few different brushes. For a hand texture you can use a dry wall knife or trowel. All of the above mentioned textures require a tool or brush to apply drywall compound to achieve the texture. The next two textures can be purchased in a spray can, orange peel and knock down. * Note - with all textures it is good to get an old piece of plywood or cardboard and experiment first to find the right amount of pressure, thickness of mud, technique and set up time to create the right look to best conceal that a repair was ever made. As always if you texture the wall and are not happy with the results you can was the texture of immediately with a wet sponge of rag, allow to dry and try texturing again or sand of a bad texture if you are not happy with it after it has been allowed to dry. * Note - Knockdown texture size can be manipulated by letting the sprayed on texture set up or dry for less or more time depending on the desired look.

We have discussed the 5 steps needed to professionally repair a drywall patch. 1) properly prep the area to be patched. 2) back frame the opening. 3) size and cut the sheetrock to fill the opening. 4) apply mesh tape and mud to smooth the surface. 5) select and apply appropriate texture.

So go out and "get your drywall on". You can check out my article on painting walls if you need assistance with the painting. Feel free to leave a comment about any other subject you would like me to write on pertaining to drywall. Please check out our website, dennardbloss.com, it is all about our construction finishes.

Dry Wall Patching - 5 Steps to Successfully Repairing a Hole in the Wall

Shelby Dennard is a third generation Drywall/Paint Contractor operating in the Pikes Peak Region and all along the Front Range of Colorado doing business as Dennard Bloss, Inc. for 16+ years. He has completed projects ranging from tract home developments, remodel, million dollar homes, custom multi-million dollar homes that have been featured in magazines and commercial construction. He is currently pursuing government contracts and writing informative how-to articles drawing from his professional experience as a drywall/painting professional. Please visit the homepage on his website and read the information about 'The 9 most important thing to consider when hiring a Contractor' at http://dennardbloss.com/.

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DIY Drywall Projects

Drywall projects may seem intimidating, but with the right tools and skills, it is actually quite simple. The materials you need include a scraper, putty, sandpaper, and a putty trial.

The first step in any drywall project is to sand down your existing walls, in order to make them smooth and lacking of any roughness. Once the walls are sanded, wipe them down to ensure that any remaining dust is gone. When the surface is completely smooth, you have completed the initial function.

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Odds are that you may have a few holes in some places around your wall. Filling the holes is easy if you utilize your putty trial and scraper. You may not be able to fill the hole with only one coating, so be prepared to go over one hole multiple times.

After the holes are fixed, you should run over the wall with sandpaper and a wash once more to make sure everything is smooth. Now it is appropriate to put in the drywall, which should fit in perfectly against the non-rough walls.

With the drywall in place, you can paint it any color you like, unless you prefer the natural color of drywall. Like filling the holes, paint requires more than one coat for maximum visibility. Any fixtures that you implement into your rooms should complement the paint. Although you may be thinking in the now, you will probably eventually sell your home, and the better it looks, the more valuable it is.

The cost of a drywall project is surprisingly cheap, costing only around one hundred and fifty dollars. If you employ somebody to do the project for you, however, the cost would be many times higher. Do it yourself is not only a great way to increase your personal mechanical skills, but also a method to save money.

DIY Drywall Projects

Justin Kander works with http://www.thehardwarecity.com to provide home hardware supplies at low prices.

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I Think I've Got Chinese Drywall Syndrome - What Should I Do?

There have been many articles and newscast done about the Chinese drywall and sheetrock info. Wading through it all can take quite a bit of time and when you are finished you may still not quite understand everything that has and is happening with the litigation process, and what lawyers are doing to get the problem solved. Although the whole scenario may be complicated, we can give you a bit of understanding as to what the problem is, where it came from and what homeowners need to be about doing to protect their homes, and families from the effects left by this tainted drywall.

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The first thing you need to understand is exactly what this problem is. The Chinese drywall and sheetrock info really helps answer that question. This type of drywall was imported in large quantities during the years between 2004-2007 when there was a building boom and shortly after hurricane Katrina. There is also evidence that there was sheetrock being built into homes as early as 2001. The drywall has gypsum inside the materials and when it is exposed to humidity it emits toxic gasses that corrode copper wires and coils and it also leaks through the walls and causes problems with appliances and even air conditioners.

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The next thing you may need to know is how to detect the problem if your home is at risk. According to the Chinese drywall and sheetrock info, It appears that most people report that they smell rotten eggs upon entering their home. They also say that they experience nose bleeds and respiratory problems. Testing needs to be done to make sure it really is the Chinese drywall. In many homes, the drywall is only used in part of the house so detection is a little more difficult.

After you have made sure the problem is the drywall, you may want to check with your insurance. Most insurances are not wanting to pay out and are looking for loopholes. The best course of action is to find out how to get involved in the lawsuit that many lawyers are spending their time putting together for litigation. There are some who are going at it alone, and are finding the process very time consuming and expensive. Especially when it comes to taking time off work to take care of legal issues. In the long run it's better to have a professional helping you along. there is a lot of Chinese drywall and sheetrock info on the Internet and can be easily accessed.

I Think I've Got Chinese Drywall Syndrome - What Should I Do?

Jason Whitney writes about Chinese drywall syndrome at http://hubpages.com/hub/Critical-Information-About-The-Chinese-Sheetrock-Recall

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Prices for Do It Yourself Sunroom Kits

Once upon a time, if you wanted to build a sunroom onto your home, you would have to hire and pay a contractor to do it for you. But with the introduction of sunroom kits, that is no longer necessary. You can order a do it yourself sunroom kit from any number of sunroom manufacturing companies, who will then ship to you the elements that are necessary to put the room together. The idea behind sunroom kits is that you should be able to save money on getting your sunroom installed by putting it together yourself. Not only are you providing the labor, but you are also cutting out the 'middle man' in the process of building your sunroom. This allows you to save money on the materials as well. Plus, depending on the do it yourself sunroom kit that you choose, you can also save money on future energy and maintenance costs.

First, understand that the price of a do it yourself sunroom kit will vary depending on your home's particular situation. For example, if you are choosing to build a small, aluminum sunroom on top of an existing deck or cement slab, it will be much less expensive than building a block foundation sunroom with more windows and wood framing. If you have an existing deck or slab, then it makes sense to choose that location for the sunroom because it is already properly graded and prepared. In that case, you can measure the deck or slab and get the proper measurements for ordering your kit. But if you don't have a slab or deck already, then you will need to decide on the proper location for your sunroom. You will also need to grade and prepare the area before you can begin construction. This obviously changes the amount of work that you will be requiring of yourself when installing your do it yourself sunroom kit. Of course, you could always hire a contractor to put in the slab for a block foundation sunroom, and then build the rest of it yourself.

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Choosing the Type of Do It Yourself Sunroom Kit

When you are ordering a sunroom kit, realize that it is usually designed for a sunroom that is not going to be connected to your HVAC system. If you want your sunroom to be heated or cooled by your existing system, then that is likely not a project you will want to take on with your do it yourself sunroom kit. Otherwise, you'll be relying on fans and portable heaters or coolers to keep your sunroom comfortable. Depending on the climate where you live, this may be just fine for you.

Getting a Quote for Your Sunroom

Companies that provide do it yourself sunroom kits have a number of standard sizes and types that they are ready to provide for you. These are the least expensive options because they are able to mass produce them and package them at a savings to them, which they will then pass on to you. However, that doesn't mean that you can't find the right kit for you and the design that you have in mind. If you find that the standard kits you can find don't fit the sunroom that you are looking to create, then you can certainly get a custom kit created, but you need to realize that it will cost more to do so. In order to get a quote for the sunroom kit you want to order, you will have to provide them with the measurements that you have selected for the design. This doesn't just include the dimensions of the sunroom itself; it also includes knowing how many windows you will have and where they will be placed. You will then also have to choose the materials that you want the sunroom to be built from, and the types of windows that you want. Will they all be stationary or will they be movable? What kind of glaze will they have on them? If this seems like it's an overwhelming number of decisions to be made, don't worry; you can get a great deal of help from the sunroom manufacturers themselves. Many of them have online design pages that will walk you through all of the choices you will need to make for your custom sunroom kit. The final kit, based on the design that you created, will be shipped to your home and will include customized installation plans as well.

Possible Problems With Do It Yourself Sunroom Kits

Probably the most common problem with a do it yourself sunroom kit is that the person who ordered it is simply not prepared for the type and amount of work that is involved. If you are not absolutely certain that you have the time and know-how to install the kit, you should think twice before attempting it. Also, remember that if you are doing the installation yourself, the work is not going to be covered by a guarantee of some kind. The materials will be, but the actual construction itself will not be. Plus, if you do make an error, any damages to your home may not be covered. In fact, it is a good idea to check with your homeowner's insurance policy before deciding to install your own sunroom so that you know whether or not you are covered for accidents that damage your home or cause injury to yourself or others. Otherwise your 'savings' could quickly become extremely costly if you have an accident.

Prices for Do It Yourself Sunroom Kits

Andrew Caxton is a journalist who has written more articles and newsletters about the same subject. You can keep reading about sunroom prices, sunrooms cost or patio rooms topics in general at his website http://www.allsunrooms.com.

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