UHF Versus VHF - Which Two-Way Radio Frequency is Better?

There are two major formats for two-way radios. They are Ultra High Frequency (UHF) radio and Very High Frequency (VHF) radio. Neither frequency band is inherently better than the other. They each have their pluses and minuses. Both formats are effective ways to communicate with another person. But how do you decide which one will fit your needs? Let's go over the key components of both frequencies to help you decide.

Two-way radios communicate with each other through use of radio waves. Radio waves have different frequencies, and by tuning a radio receiver to a specific frequency you can pick up a specific signal.

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Radio waves are transmitted as a series of cycles, one after the other. You will always see the "Hz" abbreviation used to indicate the frequency of a radio. Hertz is equal to one cycle per second.

Radio waves are measured by kilohertz (kHz), which is equal to 1000 cycles per second, or megahertz (MHz), which is equal to 1,000,000 cycles per second--or 1000 kHz. The relationship between these units is like this: 1,000,000 Hertz = 1000 kilohertz = 1 megahertz.

You may also hear the term "wavelength" when you hear about radio waves. This term is from the early days of radio when frequencies were measured in terms of the distance between the peaks of two consecutive cycles of a radio wave instead of the number of cycles per second. Lower frequencies produce a longer wavelength.

While wavelength measures distance between the peaks of cycles, frequency refers to how long the measured time is between the "crest" and "trough" of a wave arriving at the source. So frequency measures time instead of distance, but they are essentially both saying the same thing.

What is significant about wavelength for two-way radios is that it affects transmission range under certain conditions. A longer wavelength as a general rule lets a radio signal travel a greater distance.

Lower frequencies or wavelengths have greater penetrating power. That's one of the reasons they are used for communicating with submarines. VLF radio waves (3-30 kHz) can penetrate sea water to a depth of approximately 20 meters. So a submarine at shallow depth can use these frequencies.

So from what you read above you may think VHF is always the better choice for a two-way radio no matter where you are using it. That's not necessarily true. Even though VHF has better penetrating capabilities, that doesn't necessarily make it the better choice for buildings. Remember the conversation about wavelength above? Wavelength has a big impact on transmission.

To explain this let's assume we are communicating from one side of a commercial building to the other. In between these two points is a metal wall with a three foot door in it. Metal is an enemy to radio waves and they typically don't pass through it.

For our example let's assume that the UHF wavelength the radio uses is about a foot and a half long and a similar VHF radio is around five feet long. These are in the ballpark of their normal wavelengths.

When the UHF transmits its signal the foot and a half long wave will pass through the door since the door is wider than the wavelength. The VHF signal will be totally reflected since it is wider than the opening to the door.

Your microwave oven is an example of this. The glass front door has a metal mesh with very small holes. Microwaves being a very high frequency have wavelengths that are only several inches long. The mesh keeps the microwaves trapped in the oven but it allows you to see inside because light waves have a microscopic wavelength.

Just imagine walking through the building carrying a five foot wide pole. You will encounter the same challenges a VHF signal encounters. Now imagine walking through the building with a pole that's only a foot and a half wide like a UHF wave. There are lots fewer doorways you couldn't get through.

The one difference is that wireless signals will penetrate through drywall, masonry, human bodies, furniture, wall paneling, and other solid objects. All these objects will reduce the signal strength though. The more dense the object, the more it reduces the signal. VHF will penetrate these obstacles better than UHF, but that doesn't necessarily mean that VHF is better for indoor applications as we will talk about in the UHF section below.

In our example above we assumed you had a metal wall with an opening. If you reverse this and you have a three foot metal object in front of the transmitting radio, then VHF would win. Since the object is three foot wide it will totally block the UHF signal whereas the VHF signal will get around it. Lower frequencies such as VHF diffract around large smooth obstacles more easily, and they also travel more easily through brick and stone.

For most applications, lower radio frequencies are better for longer range. A broadcasting TV station illustrates this. A typical VHF station operates at about 100,000 watts and has a coverage radius range of about 60 miles. A UHF station with a 60-mile coverage radius requires transmitting at 3,000,000 watts.

So there is no clear choice for which is better, VHF or UHF. There is a lot of "black magic" to radio technology so it's not always easy to tell which will work better for your application. To help you decide on the best technology for you, more detail about each one is included below.

UHF Radio

UHF equipment operates between the frequencies of 300 MHz and 3000 MHz. Until recently, it wasn't widely used. Now, the UHF radio frequency is used for GPS, Bluetooth, cordless phones, and WiFi.

There are more available channels with UHF so in more populated areas UHF may be less likely to have interference from other systems. If you are in an area where population is thin, VHF should work fine for you. Not too long ago the FCC also opened up a new VHF frequency called MURS that is so far not heavily used in most areas. There's more about MURS below in the VHF section. If you are in an area where interference from other radios may be an issue, UHF transmitters and receivers could be your best choice unless you use a MURS VHF radio. UHF is better at squeezing through physical barriers like walls, buildings, and rugged landscape. Anything that obstructs a radio wave, will weaken a radio signal. UHF lessens that effect. Though it may not travel as far, UHF radio waves will traverse around obstacles better than VHF.

To highlight the differences in indoor range, below is an excerpt from a brochure of a leading two-way radio maker on the predicted range of one of their lines of handheld VHF and UHF two-way radios:

"Coverage estimates: At full power, line-of-sight, no obstructions the range is approximately 4+ miles. Indoor coverage at VHF is approximately 270,000 sq ft and 300,000 sq ft at UHF. Expect about 20 floors vertical coverage at VHF and up to 30 floors at UHF. Note: Range and coverage are estimates and are not guaranteed."

VHF waves are not very good at finding their way around walls, buildings and rugged landscape. Therefore range will be significantly reduced for VHF radios in these environments. That may not necessarily be a problem if the range needed is only a few hundred feet. You can also add an external antenna to an indoor VHF base station that will reduce or eliminate this problem.

One of the downsides to UHF is that the FCC requires you to get a license to operate in these frequencies. Although many frequencies in the VHF business band also require a license. If you choose a radio in the VHF MURS frequencies you can operate it without a license. UHF equipment is usually more expensive. The components need to be finely tuned and are more expensive to construct. This does not mean it's necessarily better, just more expensive.

One advantage of UHF transmission is the physically short wave that is produced by the high frequency. That means the antenna on the radio can be shorter than an equivalent VHF radio.

VHF Radio

VHF equipment operates between the frequencies of 30 MHz and 300 MHz. FM radio, two-way radios, and television broadcasts operate in this range.

Both UHF and VHF radios are prone to line of sight factors, but VHF a little more so. The waves make it through trees and rugged landscapes, but not as well as UHF frequencies do. However, if a VHF wave and a UHF wave were transmitted over an area without barriers, the VHF wave would travel almost twice as far. This makes VHF easier to broadcast over a long range. If you are working mostly outdoors, a VHF radio is probably the best choice, especially if you are using a base station radio indoors and you add the external antenna.

Since VHF has been around longer and isn't as complicated to make, equipment is usually cheaper when compared to similar UHF equipment. One disadvantage to this equipment can be its size. Since the frequency waves are bigger, an antenna must be bigger.

VHF radios also have a smaller number of available frequencies. Interference with other radios could be more likely to be a problem. However, the FCC recently made this less of a problem when they opened up the MURS frequencies. The 150 MHz frequency is a Citizens Band radio spectrum that is called the MURS service. MURS stands for Multi-Use Radio Service. This service is for use in the United States and Canada. It is a low power, short range service in the VHF 150 MHz Citizens Band radio spectrum. There are 5 channels in the MURS frequencies with 38 privacy codes under each one that enable you to only pick up conversations on your code. The FCC does not require users of products for MURS to be licensed.

With MURS you can add a larger or external antenna to improve range. If you want to put an antenna on top of your house or business, you can do it with MURS. Some antenna manufacturers claim an external antenna can increase the effective radiated power of a transmitter by a factor of 4. These MURS intercoms can transmit up to four miles, and perhaps more with an external antenna depending on the terrain.

One benefit of VHF wireless radios is that battery life is almost always better than for similar UHF units. For handheld radios this is a plus.

VHF equipment is usually lower cost for those on a budget. Equipment can be more economical than similar UHF products.

In summary, if you are planning on using your two-way radios mainly inside buildings, then UHF is likely the best solution for you. If you are mainly using your two-way radios for communication outside, then VHF would be a good choice. Either radio technology can work for you if you don't really have a long range to cover. In that case you may want to choose VHF for it's lower cost.

UHF Versus VHF - Which Two-Way Radio Frequency is Better?

David Onslow is the marketing director at IntercomsOnline.com, which specializes in selling two-way radio and intercom systems for business use. Go to http://www.IntercomsOnline.com to see VHF and UHF two-way radios and intercoms.

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How To Use A Comb To Texture Your Ceiling and Walls

Here in the UK, we texture a variety of stunning patterns & designs straight onto the ceiling & walls using tools such as fingers, rollers, sponges, rags, brushes, trowels, etc: your only limit is your imagination; but in this article I want to talk about using 'texturing' combs, to create some amazing affects onto your interior surfaces; these are very reasonably priced & now widely available to you thanks to the internet: plus, the methods for applying the texture coating to the desired surface is usually 'rolled on, sometimes brushed on, or even "troweled on' instead of 'sprayed on.'

As you can imagine, the cost for applying texture coating to your ceiling & walls this way makes it possible for the home 'DIY' enthusiast to 'have a go yourself' because all you will need is a bucket to mix the texture powder in, the tool for mixing, (either an attachment to the power drill, or a plastic texture mixing tool that you attach to a wooden handle,) the texture powder, a roller & tray to hold the mixture & of course, the texture comb;

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Some texturing combs consist of a moulded 'all in one' design, (almost resembling that of a plastic tile adhesive spreader, but the serrated 'comb' edge is slightly tighter together/not spaced as wide apart from each other) whereas, the handle, and the serrated (patterning) edge are made from a moulded, plastic material, the usual length of the comb is around 10 inches long (this is ideal for creating designs onto your larger, as well as smaller ceilings & walls;) whilst other texturing combs consist of a wooden handle, with a slit cut through it, whereas a piece, or two, of flexible plastic (containing the serrated patterning edge,) is inserted; Texturing combs, if looked after correctly could serve you a long time, but please be aware, do not wash out the combs in boiling water as this could shrivel up the serrated edges, plus also remember that, after texturing many surfaces, the serrated edge could become quite worn down, thus giving you a thinner, and more undesirable pattern depth;

To pattern the ceiling, first of all, make sure that the surface is correctly sealed and that the room is cool (no central heating on), you must mix enough texture to cover the whole surface area to be textured; secondly, after you decided which pattern/design your going to attempt, stand at the entrance to your desired room and look up to the ceiling, it is quite normal to actually start patterning alongside the wall, running across the narrow width of the ceiling, viewing from the door entrance, (but this depends entirely upon yours, or your customers personal preference.)
So, for instance, let us say that we are going to start our pattern from the door entrance wall, whereas, the pattern (once completed) will run down the (longer & narrower) length of the ceiling.
Stand with your back against the wall (in which you intend to start the pattern) & look up; this is how your going to work the pattern; as you pattern, the pattern is always behind you, and your working away from it/across the narrow width, & down the length of the ceiling; now with your back against the wall, hold your comb in the hand that feels the most comfortable for you to texture with; if you hold the comb in your left hand, slide across the wall, to the far corner of the right side of the room, this is the corner that, once you apply your band of texture, your going to start your comb pattern, & run it the width of that wall/edge, if you use your right hand, you start at the far left corner of the ceiling.

In summary, using your paint roller, roll on a band of texture, around half/three quarter inch thick depth, across the narrowest width of your ceiling, right across, from one wall edge to the other, the band of texture should be around two roller widths wide, pattern this with your comb, then continue this method throughout the whole ceiling, continuing right down the length of the area.
Everything here is fully covered in 'Texture Revival;' to help you more, look out for my articles concerning mixing texture & also surface preparation.

When you attempt any texturing tasks, always practice on a small area first for best results.
Thank you for reading, I hope that this article will help you further with your quest in learning to use combs to texture with.

Dale Ovenstone.

How To Use A Comb To Texture Your Ceiling and Walls

Dale Ovenstone: Creator of 'TEXTURE REVIVAL' unique & amazing, downloadable books & guides for the home 'DIY' enthusiast; so that you can 'have a go yourself'

http://www.lookreadlearn.com

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Semigloss Versus Flat Paint

Obviously, the main difference between semigloss versus flat paint is the level of reflectiveness. Semigloss paint gives a shiny finish that reflects any available light. This often makes it a better choice for interior paint than exterior. Depending on your area and the amount of shade around the house, direct sunlight may reflect too much for semigloss paint to be appropriate outside.

The reflective nature of semigloss paint will emphasize any scratches or dings in the walls, making flat paint a better choice in older homes with some damage and wear. Flat paints can be very useful in painting over areas in new drywall construction where the taping is not sanded as smoothly as it should be. Joints where a porous compound was used for bonding may also be a good candidate for flat paint versus semiglossy. These areas of new construction can be primed later on and a new coat of glossy paint can be applied once all of the imperfections have been smoothed out.

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Semigloss paint is also less durable than flat because minor scratches can be enough to mar the entire wall's appearance. This may be something to consider if you have pets or small children that will be bumping into the walls. Unfortunately, flat paint is harder to clean, which may make the tradeoff about even. Flat paint is more porous, which allows dirt to stick far better than it would on a glossy surface.

The answer to this may be a compromise somewhere in the middle. Eggshell paints are now available that give you a little bit of a glossy finish without becoming as bright as a semigloss paint. This offers more stain protection than a flat paint while still being forgiving enough to use in damaged or high-traffic areas of your home. Eggshell paint is often a good choice for exterior uses where you want a touch of shine without it becoming blinding in the midday sun.

Glossy and semigloss paint is generally not a good idea for ceilings as they will reflect the room's light back down toward the occupants. If you

Semigloss Versus Flat Paint

To learn more about New Jersey Painting and what is the best paint choices for your home come visit us at http://www.njpaint.com

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Infection Control Measures to Take During Hospital Construction and Renovation Projects

Hospital renovations can be one of the most challenging areas of construction and should only be done by experienced professionals. Owners should always request the contractor's health and safety plan and have an (ICRA) Infection Control Risk Assessment created prior to work commencing. It is as important for the owner's representative as well as the contractor to be aware and implement these Infection Control Measures to reduce the facilities risk of spreading or creating infections from construction activities. People are in the hospital to get better not be exposed to situations in which they could get worse.

1. Containment Areas. Properly blocking off and barricading work spaces is one of the most important measures taken during a hospital renovation. The contractor should utilize floor to deck temporary wall partitions to fully seal off an area that will be undergoing construction activities. Typically, thick plastic barriers with zippered doors can be utilized on small projects / short duration projects. While on larger areas, temporary walls constructed of metal framing and gypsum drywall are more practical. In long term projects the metal frame and drywall option will be more durable. Typically the contractor will place 2 doors in these temporary wall partitions for compliance with 2 means of egress. Utilizing barriers constructed of gypsum wallboard, metal studs, and standard interior doors will provide the contractor a space that can be secured when the jobsite is down which will limit risks of theft and injuries. Containing the construction is important for safety of workers / patients wandering into construction areas as well as to prevent dust from spreading into the hospital.

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2. Negative Air Pressure. In most cases, when performing construction activities the contractor will be generating dust. For the safety of the hospital and patients the contractor wants to create negative pressure air so that the space under construction is actually pulling air from the hospital instead of pushing air into the hospital. These negative air machines contain HEPA filters and will actually filter the air and are routed to the outside of the hospital through an exhaust duct via a window. The size of the machine to be selected and used will be based on the size of the space and CFM required. Many brands exist and a local abatement supply store is often a good place to find these. Rental stores may carry these as well. The best advice is to compare the HEPA replacement filter pricing as these can be expensive and required frequent changing depending on the size of the space to be renovated and types of dust generating activities to be performed. The one caveat to this is certain areas of the hospital are sterile processing areas and are required to be under Positive are pressure. These areas are the exception to the rule and should not be placed under negative air pressure. 3. Closing off Return and Supply Air Vents. Another important measure in control infections in hospital construction is to isolate the renovation space from the main building's HVAC system. All return air vents should be closed, taped, or blocked off as to keep any dust generated in the construction zone from being circulated and entering the rest of the hospital. All supply vents should be disconnected as well, if possible. This will help with the negative air pressure of the space and keep the dust contained to the area of construction. This is a measure that requires a common sense approach. In some regions, extreme cold and hot weather may not allow for disconnecting of the supply vents because of freezing / overheating risks. These risks are understandable and can be overcome with a larger negative air machine to offset the supply CFM entering the space.

4. Dust Control. Another good practice for preventing dust from spreading into the floor areas of the hospital is to keep a clean jobsite. Utilize HEPA Filtered Shop Vacuums; they filter most of the air particulates to keep down the dust. Also, Dry Mop the area at mid day and end of business and follow that with a wet mop depending on the construction activities ongoing. This will keep the floors clean and minimize dust / debris on workers shoes and the chance of tracking that through the hospital. At the construction entrances utilize a dry mop, wet mop, and walk off mats. Require workers to wipe their feet on a dry mop then a wet mop, and then a sticky mat prior to exiting the space. These mats have a sticky side that the workers and roll carts pass over on the way in and out of the space and it pulls dirt and debris into the mat. Depending on construction activities going on in the space these mops and mats require more or less frequent changing and attention. The best entrance / exit of a space would be through stair wells in most cases. This helps to minimize tracking dirt throughout the entire hospital and also to limit the steady stream of workers from going in and out all day possibly disrupting day to day hospital activities.

5. Trash / Debris Removal. The best practice for removing debris from a workspace is to utilize a trash chute from a window for example that leads directly to a dumpster. Any debris going down the chute should be kept wet in order to minimize dust. Minimizing dust from the debris will keep the outside air vents of the buildings taking the air back in the hospital. If this option is not available covered rolling dumpsters should be utilized. By utilizing these covered dumpsters it will help to prevent any dust coming off the debris as it is wheeled through the hospital on its way to the outside disposal location. If you are a Hospital Representative in need of a contractor for a hospital construction project...

Give us a call. We'll be glad to give you an estimate on your project, produce a construction schedule, and layout an Infection Control Plan to minimize risk to your site.

Infection Control Measures to Take During Hospital Construction and Renovation Projects

At Colossal Construction Company LLC we pride ourselves on helping our customers find cost effective solutions to these type of needs.

Colossal Construction Company LLC
590 Means Street NW
Suite 200
Atlanta, GA 30318
Phone 404.828.0214
A Service Disabled Veteran Owned Small Business SDVOSB
Full Service Construction Company providing Residential and Commercial renovation, new construction and maintenance services.
http://www.colossalconstructioncompanyllc.com

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How to Install Natural Stone Veneer

Natural stone veneer can be applied to retaining walls, indoor or outdoor fireplaces, wall facades, and pillars. Thin stone veneers are made from real stone so they resist warping, cracking, fading, and chipping. Additionally, if they do become chipped or cracked nobody will notice since, unlike fabricated fake stone veneers, the color and texture of the stone goes all the way through the stone. Stone veneer is also faster and easier to apply since it is lighter and easier to handle.

Natural thin stone veneers come in a wide variety of styles and colors to choose from. They are quarried in Arizona, Lannon, Fond Du Lac, Chilton, and Michigan. Thin stone veneer is the ideal stone application since it is superior in terms of being very durable and flexible in matching nearly every style, color, and design. Stone veneers are thinner and lighter than manufactured fake stone veneer and fiberglass stones.

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The Basics

Stone veneer installation on any surface needs the same basic methods of application. First there needs to be a moisture barrier, a frame or structure for the mortar to grip, mortar, and then the stone of your choice. The moisture barrier and backbone frame are necessary components to ensure that your thin stone veneer will last a lifetime.

When installing stone Veneer to plywood, paneling, wall sheeting, wall board, or other non stone surface:

1. Cover the wall with a moisture barrier that is weather resistant and protects the underlying wood and the back of the stone veneer from moisture damage.

2. Apply a metal lath, mesh, or sheeting with galvanized nails or staples according to your local building code. This supplies rigid support for the mortar to stick to which provides a firm backbone for your stones to grip.

3. Apply your mortar, and on top of that apply your choice of stone veneer with mortar in between the "joints."

4. After your mortar has hardened, simply use a stiff brush and some water to scrape away any mortar that has found its way onto the face of your stones.

Concrete Masonry Stucco

1. As long as the masonry contains no oils, surfactants, or other chemicals on its surface and is clean and dry then you can feel free to apply the stone veneers without any prep. Just make sure that the backside of the masonry will not be exposed to a water source such has those used for retaining walls, ponds, or garden beds.

2. If it does contain chemicals or oils simply etch the surface with muriatic acid and score with a stiff wire brush.

3. Apply your mortar and your stone as usual.

4. If your surface has been treated with paint or other chemicals, simply sand blast this surface away or follow directions above and apply a barrier material, metal lath, mesh, or sheeting and install stone as you would for a plywood wall.

Metal Buildings

1. Install paperbacked 3/8 inch expanded metal lath to metal cladding supports. Use metal cladding supports of at least 12 to 20 gage and using 1 ¼ inches -12 pancake head super tight screws. Make sure that the screws penetrate at least 3.8 inch beyond the inside of the metal surface and at least every 12 inches.

2. Apply a 1/2 inch to a 3/4 scratch coat of mortar and allow it to dry at least 48 hours.

3. Apply the mortar and install the stones.

4. After the mortar had been allowed to dry at least 24 hours simply clean any mortar stains form the face of the stones with a stiff brush and water.

Natural Thin Stone veneers

Natural stone veneers are durable and long lasting. In the long run, real stone is more economical since it requires nearly zero maintenance, should never need to be replaced under normal conditions, and resists cracking, fading, chipping, erosion, and weather conditions.

Thin stone is available in a wide variety of colors and styles because it is made from natural stone. Therefore you can choose from more colors and cuts than fabricated stone.

Halquist Stone, Wisconsin's premier supplier of thin stone veneer, offers thin stone veneer that is cut from quarries in Arizona, Wisconsin, and Michigan.

How to Install Natural Stone Veneer

Looking for a supplier of Natural Stone Veneer? View the many different styles of Stone Veneer and granite countertops in Wisconsin that Halquist Stone has to offer. For more information, call (262) 246-9000 or visit HalquistStone.com to request a free brochure.

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Stair Lifts Price - Compare Stair Lift Prices Before Buying Or Renting

Stair lifts are useful devices for elderly and disabled people. Because of these devices, such people are able to live their lives in an easier and more normal way. Stair lifts are relatively new technology in disabled person's lives. They serve with the purpose of helping aged and disabled people to move around from one place to another or to go and up down stairs.

They come in numerous designs and applications. Some are designed with electric rails that can be installed along the sides of stairs-this is a traditional installation type. However, they are usually very expensive since they consist of a lot of hardware and labor to install.

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So you decide to buy or rent one, it would be best to take some pointers on different stair lifts prices in the market.

In considering the price, you need to know the type of stair lifts you are going to purchase or rent. Basically, you also need to consider the type of stairs built inside your house. Compared to straight stair lifts, the curved stair lifts are more expensive since it is specially designed for curved angles. However, you can select other types of stair lifts such as outdoor stair lifts and the wheelchair platform stair lifts. All of these are available in the market today.

There's nothing wrong in doing price comparisons from various suppliers or retailers. As a consumer this is your right, so take full advantage of it. It is essential to do some consultations first with your target vendor.

In this way you can easily identify what would be the best recommended stair lifts for your house. Aside from the stair lifts price, other important factors are the costs of installation and the warranty period of the stair lifts.

Nowadays, an average stair lift price is often increasing due to rising demand as many new people are now discovering its benefits and new, higher quality models are being made available.

If buying a new one is out of your budget you can look into rentals from any lift rental service centers as a last resort.

Stair Lifts Price - Compare Stair Lift Prices Before Buying Or Renting

Discover the best stair chair lift at my site. Learn more about stair lift prices and compare the best stair lift manufacturers.

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How To Finish a Basement The Easy Way

Getting your basement finished is not as complicated as you might think. There are a few easy steps to go through, and then you have the basement of your dreams.

You're already imagining that new home theater down there right? Well, stay focused a bit and learn how to finish a basement before you get to the fun stuff you will do with once completed. Here are the simple 5 steps that will guide you through the process on how to finish a basement.

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1. Waterproofing - You will need to create a waterproof basement first. Do not skip this step. The concrete in your basement is porous.

Untreated concrete soaks up water and dampness through a process known as 'wicking'. The water and dampness damages the integrity of the cement. When you seal your cement, water and dampness are no longer able to soak into the cement and damage it.

This is a major step in learning how to finish a basement. It is crucial if you want to protect your basement and everything in it.

2. Choose your lighting. Most of the time there is poor lighting in basements. Depending upon what you want to do with your basement, there may be a need to enhance the lighting of your basement.

For example, if you were a photographer, the dungeon-style room would be great for developing pictures; otherwise, you might need to add new fixtures and wires.

When adding new wires, you should consult a certified electrician. Even if you already know how to finish a basement, you should seek help with the wiring. You want your new basement to be shocking, but not literally!

If you want more natural light, consider adding or expanding your basement windows.

3. Get your basement insulated. If your basement is not already insulated, this is vital. A lot of insulation is important for keeping the weather temperatures out. It's also beneficial for a few other things. For example, your heating and cooling bills.

If you don't have proper insulation, you will lose a lot of money through cool air and warm air loss. Your air systems will work double time to heat and cool your basement. Make sure that you have an adequate amount of insulation.

4. Think about your floors. When you are learning how to finish your basement, an important thing to think about is your floor. You may want different types of flooring depending upon what your awesome plan is for your finished basement. Indoor/Outdoor carpet is a great selection for a basement. It goes the extra step to keep the dampness out, and it's really easy to clean and take care of.

5. Finish your walls. You will need to cover your insulation or OSB board with something to protect it, and to look great. Sheetrock is okay, but an even better idea is some kind of paneling. If there is any dampness left, sheetrock will soak it up. You could go ahead with the sheetrock and coat it with some kind of sealer if you prefer.

Great job! I told you it wasn't hard to learn how to finish a basement. Now you are ready to make your basement the coolest thing on the block. Good luck with your project.

How To Finish a Basement The Easy Way

Visit Basement Idea to discover more fantastic basement ideas and simple ways to finish your basement.

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